Cygnus Bird Tours

June 2006 Berdun, Spanish Pyrenees

For this trip we where based at the village of Berdun in the foot hills of the Spanish Pyrenees. The weather was warm and sunny for the full trip with only a hint of thunder coming from the French side of the mountains. The group had flown from Heathrow to Madrid and we had travelled through Zaragoza for a brief stop on the way to Berdun, a  break a six hour drive.

Day One

We arrived at our hotel in the late afternoon and we dropped off our bags and headed out to the River Aragon. In the warm early evening sunshine we parked the car by the small road bridge and scanned the fast flowing river for birds.

Griffon Vultures floated above us along with plenty of Black Kites and we kept an eye on the skies for other species that we may have missed.

The river area was alive with birdsong with Nightingales and Cetti’s Warblers drowning out the Wryneck and Golden Oriole further down the river. At least 6 Bee-eaters flew around us periodically landing on wires or on the tops of the many trees in the area. Spotless Starlings where all around us and Little ringed Plover was nesting on the shingle bank.

On the bridge House Sparrows were busy feeding young in the many holes in the structure of the bridge. There was also a pair of Rock Sparrow among them as we scanned through them. This was a new bird for many of the group and a good way to start the trip.

Melodious Warblers sang on many of the trees along the path we walked along and a stunning pair of Penduline Tits allowed the group watch them nest building from no more than 10 metres.

In the sky Booted Eagle floated past and gave excellent views and a Peregrine Falcon in hunting mode sped across the river; it must have had its eye on something, alas we lost sight of it before it struck.

Woodchat Shrike and a nice view of a male Golden Oriole finished off a hectic day for the group. All satisfied we headed back to refresh ourselves before heading to the restaurant for a well deserved meal.

Day Two

Setting off after a hearty breakfast we arrived with great anticipation at the Foz de Binies. The shrubs and scrub were alive with song, Nightingale being the most abundant in the area. We did add Common and Lesser Whitethroat to the list along with a stunning male Cirl Bunting and a pair of Red-backed Shrike.

Further up the valley we stopped to admire the breathtaking scenery and scanned the rocks for signs of life. Soon we spotted young Griffon Vultures on the cliff edges waiting expectantly for food from the adult birds circling above. Short-toed Eagle was spotted on one of the rocky outcrops and Sparrowhawk and Kestrel added to the growing raptor species we had encountered.

We had lunch north of Hecho and enjoyed the sunshine and the spectacular views of the mountains. Griffon Vultures were numerous and some of the group had stopped counting them because of their regular views.

After lunch we walked to look for Wallcreeper, one of the regions specialist birds. The walk along the rocky pathway produced more Griffon Vultures and lots of calls of Black Woodpecker, the latter being only briefly encountered in flight by some of the group.

Crag Martins where buzzing all around and the familiar sound of Red billed Chough calling from crags around every corner made the walk seem a lot shorter. At the Wallcreeper sight we looked along the ledges and crags for this exquisite bird and had no sightings. We did add Black Redstart, Firecrest and Alpine Accentor as we waited. Then the unmistakeable call heralded the presence of one of the birds. A male was feeding below an overhanging root and was giving superb but neck breaking views. We managed to get the telescopes on the area it was feeding on and it was joined by the female. Both birds disappeared intermittently but always returned to the area allowing all of the group excellent views and even some digital photography through the scopes.

Alpine Choughs should well across the valley and Alpine Swift attended a nest further along the path. Wholly satisfied we headed back to the cars and added Blackcap, Garden Warbler and Short-toed Treecreeper to the trip list. At the car pack we spotted a Wryneck feeding on the ground with Blue Tit, Coal Tit and Great Tit. Serin and Citril Finch were added too as we rested from the walk back.

A sole Golden Eagle drifted across the valley, alas the Lammergier we wanted failed to materialise.

We decided to back track down to the Foz de Binies on the way back to the hotel, stopping frequently to scan the surrounding areas. We added Rock Bunting, more Cirl Bunting and Red-backed Shrike on the way back and also a distant Lammergier. The “dot” was unmistakeable; however, we all wanted much better views than that.

Day Three

Today we headed for a stroll around San Juan de la Pena. At the foot of the road we took some time to scan around and saw Crested Larks, Corn Buntings and Cirl Buntings feeding in the field. A Red Kite skirted over the meadow and off along the tree line using its well defined tail as a rudder for the entire group to appreciate it displaying the art of flying.

Willow Warblers called along with Woodchat Shrike from the shrubbery and a pair of Serin chased around giving good views for those who could follow the birds in their optics.

At the first monastery Crag Martin was nesting in the crevices above and Alpine Swift also proved to be nesting there too. Black Redstart called from the adjacent thicket that was also alive with movement from titmice and finches.

Once at the top of the road at the site of the new monastery, undergoing a very tasteful refurbishment, we sat and checked the birds around the picnic tables that we sat at. White Wagtail was the first bird to check out the group quickly followed by a superb male Black Redstart. On the short marker posts Spotted Flycatcher showed why it is so called!

As we sat in the morning sunshine enjoying the calls of the birds and watching those close to us a Black Woodpecker flew “corvid” like across the field and into the opposite wood. This was a first for most of the group and that whetted our appetite for more.

We walked through the woods towards to viewpoint overlooking the Pyrenees. On the way a male Black Woodpecker called although we couldn’t quite locate it we decided to make a quieter approach on the return route. A Nuthatch fed young in an Oak tree and gave plenty of opportunities for photographs. A Firecrest was busy looking for food in the shrubs and afforded the group excellent views.

At the viewpoint the view of the Pyrenees was breathtaking. Griffon Vultures floated above and below us and added to the experience. Then an Egyptian Vulture flew over our heads and drifted down to the left before circling around and flying past again this time allowing us superb views from above.

Six Booted Eagles and two Short-Toed Eagles added to the day with two of each species quite close together for comparison. We took the opportunity to have lunch here, joined by the Chaffinches and Coal Tits for company.

After a delicious lunch we walked along the track to an outcrop and from here we were able to watch young Griffon Vultures being fed by diligent parents. Red billed Chough showed really well and a pair of Crested Tits almost posed for the photographers in the group.

As we walked back to the monastery we heard the movement of leaf litter very close. We were able to get the group to approach quietly and listen. Whatever was making the noise was very close and hidden by a hedge that what frustratingly too thick and too high to see through.

We whispered that we were sure it was a Black Woodpecker, but we had to try to remain calm and patient.

Then the noise changed, the trunk was being explored and then the bird showed. It was very shocked to see the group staring at it and seemed almost to be unsure as what to do. Should it remain still and try to blend in or should it fly? It chose the latter and flew off silently – most unexpected for a bird of this size – into the woods.

The group had been less than seven metres away from this bird, hidden by the hedge and their willingness to remain calm and quiet had paid off handsomely. Then as if someone had broken the spell the excitement welled and the entire group began chattering excitedly. The bird of the day without doubt!

Not much birding was done in the woods; people were just too excited at what they had seen.

Out of the woods the group caught their breath and began to come back down to earth.

We decided to walk through the labyrinth of paths in the wood opposite the monastery and added Short-toed Treecreeper, finches, titmice and Great spotted Woodpecker to the list.

Gathering together we chose to return to the River Aragon for another look in the area before returning to the hotel. We drove to the local tip and had excellent views of Red and Black Kite, Raven the huge and very impressive Griffon Vultures and four Egyptian Vultures. This was not the most picturesque site of the trip; however, the visit was worthwhile for the views of the birds on the ground.

There was an optional trip after dinner to see Scops Owl at a local village. A few mimicking whistles and the birds responded well before eventually showing under the street lamps.

Day Four

Today we headed a little further south to Riglos. A few strategic stops along the way gave us excellent views of Black and Red Kites, Bullfinch and Red-legged Partridge. At one stop we were able to sample some wild grapes growing in a lay-by and very nice they were too. Here we had superb views of Rock Bunting and Sardinian Warbler.

As we pulled into Riglos and parked the transport in the car-park outside of the village (there is traffic restrictions for non-residents) we were treated to amazing views of the Mallos de Riglos (the fingers of Riglos). We scanned the scrub area around the car park to get Lesser and Common Whitethroat, Firecrest, Spotted Flycatcher and Bonelli’s Warbler.

From the car park we walked up to the church through the narrow, steep and winding streets. From here we saw Blue Rock Thrush and Black Wheatear in the scree at the base of the huge rock formations. Black Redstarts and Blackcap were evident as was single counts of Dartford Warbler and Subalpine Warbler; the latter proving difficult to spot at times.

On the rocks Griffon Vultures were numerous with Sparrowhawk and Peregrine too. A Goshawk flew across the tree tops above the village. Pure Rock Dove was a first for some of the group.

We took the time to have lunch and enjoy the sunshine and the birds.

We walked further along the Mallos and added Golden Eagle to the list and Booted Eagle to the day list.

On the way back to the car park some of the group had a brief view of a male Golden Oriole as it flew across the lane. It then vanished, as these birds tend to do despite their bright colours, and despite it calling it as too deep into the trees to pick out again.

We went back towards San Juan de la Pena and had a pleasant walk round and visited the older monastery as the birds were quiet in the heat of the afternoon sun.

We drove back to the hotel for an early dinner and to freshen up as we where looking for Eagle Owl that night.

Heading towards the River Aragon again we stopped to watch Bee-eaters and Golden Oriole and were treated to a good view of a Cetti’s Warbler as it perched for a few moments on a branch in the evening sun.

Yellow-legged Gulls where on the island in the river and Grey Heron fished in the reed margins. Nightingale and Wryneck called to heighten the experience and the raptors continued to impress our guests as they floated around above us.

On to the Eagle Owl site and as we arrived we immediately heard the “Uhu” of a male from the far bank. We sat down and waited. Tawny Owl called from behind us and then a huge bird flew across a gap in the trees, it was the unmistakeable sighting of the Eagle Owl and it took its place in its usual look out post allowing very good views even in the fading light..

From here it was off to the bar for a well earned drink and a chat about the trip so far.

Day Five

We headed back to the mountains again today. The sun was shining and the sky was an amazing blue. This time we headed up the Anso Valley and stopped regularly to see the hedgerows and fields full of birds. Hobby, Honey Buzzard, Pallid Swift, Grey and Yellow Wagtail were all new birds for the trip. Cirl Bunting showed really well and Red and Black Kites where feeding in the fields.

As we climbed the mountains – in the cars, not on foot! - The habitat changed and with it the birds. Ring Ouzel showed well as did Rock Bunting and Dipper was spotted on the river. Raptors continued to show well with Griffon and Egyptian Vultures, Booted, Golden and Short-toed Eagle all putting in an appearance. Red backed Shrike and Woodchat Shrike added colour and everywhere we looked something was happening.

We stopped for lunch at Anso and had coffee in a local bar to escape the sun for a short while.

Our destination for the afternoon was the Aisa Valley a very quiet valley and well worth visiting. A Swallow-tailed Butterfly was flying very close to us as we sat on the grass scanning the skies for raptors.

Crag Martins and Common Swifts were busy feeding on the huge amount of flies, although we were not troubled by them. Then our target bird drifted tantalisingly briefly over the ridge of a mountain before drifting back again. It was distant but the shape gave it away as a Lammergier. We scanned the ridge and our patience paid off as the bird came back along the ridge coming closer to us. We could make out the wonderful colour markings of the bird especially when it dropped below the skyline with the mountain slope as a back-drop. By this time the entire group where looking nowhere else as this bird came closer. It continued to follow the ridge and was easily viewable now with binoculars it was close enough to see that it was a male with the black beard markings. The bird eventually disappeared leaving the group excited and definitely “wowed” by the size, grace and beauty of such a wonderful vulture.

After dinner in Hecho we headed up towards the Boca de inferno. Our target bird for tonight was European Nightjar. In the woodlands we had views of Black Woodpecker in flight, Serin, Citril Finch and Wryneck. Lots of Black Redstart and Crested Tit where present too. We heard two male Eagle Owls ay opposite ends of the valley and then the Nightjars began to chirr.

Within a few minutes we had a fly past and then a male calling from an exposed branch. In all we saw three birds really well with four others. It was deemed a success and we were all content to call it a day.

Day Six

Today we visited Jaca and Candanchu to the east of our base.

We called to Candanchu first stopping at a local quarry on the way for Wallcreeper. Unfortunately we did not have any luck here, so we pressed on to our destination.

Candanchu in summer is a ghost town, the skiers have long gone and the only people around are the maintenance workers and the builders.

The birds stayed and we added Water Pipit to the list and spotted Alpine Accentor, Snow Bunting, Alpine Chough and Citril Finch at close range. Raven, Alpine Swift, Kestrel and Golden Eagle completed a respectable list for us here.

We decided to have lunch on the way back as it was a little chilly at Candanchu.

As we ate our lunch we had Green Woodpecker, Lammergier, numerous kites, Cirl and Rock Bunting, Tree Pipit and Booted Eagle feeding in a field nearby.

After lunch we drove into Jaca, the major town of the area. It gave people the chance to buy items they wanted and for people to do some sight seeing in the town.

The fervent birdwatchers of the group walked around the Garrison in the town. Here Tree Sparrow was added to the list. Serin and Rock Sparrow showed really well. Pallid Swifts flew overhead and on the lawn of the Garrison a small number of Hawfinches seemed oblivious to the group, quite different to the ones in the UK.

On the way back to the hotel we scanned fields and added Short-toed Lark, Quail and Marsh Harrier to the list and saw numerous raptors along the way.

After a hearty evening meal we chatted a short while before retiring and sadly preparing for our departure tomorrow.

Day Seven

After checking out of the hotel we had a last drive down to the river. We had a look at the Penduline Tits; they had now completed the nest that we watched them build earlier. In the rough grass close to the river a lark was moving around and as we managed to get the telescopes on to it turned out to be a Lesser Short Toed Lark so the trip to the river was well worth it indeed.

We headed off to the airport in good time to catch the flight and had a nice relaxing journey back home. Full of new memories and some of the group had impressive new birds on their life lists now.

It is always a pleasure to Birdwatch here and this trip enforced that further. Even as a leader who has been many times I can never wait to go back.